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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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Topic Date User
Bungonia - Mystery old multipitch on South Wall 28-Sep-2014 At 9:42:22 PM nmonteith
Anyone know of any info about a mystery old mutlipitch on the far left of the South Wall of Bungonia Gorge? It is directly above the route Pulsar and Slope 'en Soapen on the slick slabs. There are several tiny very old rusty carrots (8mm) up a wall to a ledge (old manky rap ring thing) then a hard short corner and crusty face (two more tiny carrots, one with ancient tat on it). Then runout to ledge and double (pox) 8mm carrot belay. Above that is a black slab with at least two 8m carrots going rightish under a massive overhung wall. Above this wall is a ledge where I found at least two more of these tiny carrots. The condition and size of all the bolts made me think the route must date from the 70s. I think the route could be partially an aid route as certain sections seemed quite hard and the bolts were in strange places. I will post photos if this doesn't get someones attention. I have no idea how such a long route (at least 200m) and up impressive terrain never made it into a guidebook...

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