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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Grampians	Halls Gap	(General)	(General)	[ Grampians Guide \| Images ]

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Where's Crock Wall? 28-Jun-2014 At 12:11:08 PM BA

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THE SUNDIAL (PART 3)

**The Mad Hatter 95m 16
Starts 40m right of Frumious Bandersnatch. 1. 31m Climb the short corner into the chimney and move up to a ledge on the right wall. Either traverse right to the arête and up the crack and corner or continue up the jam crack directly above (less pleasant). 2. 18m Climb the corner on thin holds on the right. 3. 37m (crux) Start up the crack in the middle of the wall, then step right and climb to the top of the block. Move back left and continue straight up the line to the overhang at 28m Traverse 5m on delicate holds to a rest below the overhang. Layback up to better jugs and continue steeply to a ledge. 4. 9m right under the roof then left onto the arête. Step to the top. Keith Lockwood, David White. Andrew Thomson. (alt) 17.6.72

Mome Rath 97m 15
Starts 11m right of Mad Hatter. 1. 44m (crux) Climb the short corner and move right into the narrow chimney corner. Climb to a ledge on the left and crawl across into the line. Climb straight up the deepening line until bridging leads to face climbing on the right wall, then step back to bridging again. Move past the scrubby niche to the belay ledge on the left. 2. 44m Continue up the line, chimneying to a ledge. Move back right into the corner and bridge up the outside of the shrubbery to exit left onto a ledge. 3. 9m Up the line to the top. Andrew Thomson, Keith Lockwood. (alt) 4.4.72

Slithy Tove 95m 16
Starts 18m right of Mome Rath. 1. 37m Bridge awkwardly up to a ledge and pull through it on a small tree. Repeat the process through the next section and continue to a ledge on the right. 2. 18m Step left and climb the corner on sharp holds and jams. 3. 40m Move back and climb the clean corner. Continue up the centre of the amphitheatre moving left where two blades begin. Bridge wide up the blades and exit left onto the top. Keith Lockwood, Andrew Thomson. (alt) 11.3.72

*Vorpal Sword 90m 17
Starts 6m right of Slithy Tove. 1. 22m Climb the chimney crack to a small ledge below the second overhang. 2. 28m (crux) Layback around the bulge with increasing difficulty and up to a tree. Up the wall behind and climb a corner to a large belay ledge. 3. 40m as for the third pitch of Slithy Tove. Peter Jacob, Peter Lindorff, Kevin Lindorff. (var) 12.3.72 FFA (One aid.) The Lindorff brothers.

Knave 90m 16
Starts 15m right of Vorpal Sword. 1. 30m Climb 10m to the tree on top of the block. Step up off the left hand end and up the crack to a ledge. Straight up the corner to step left onto the prow and belay. 2. 25m An exposed move up right leads diagonally right to the base of a thin crack (just left of the gully). Up this to a large ledge. 3. 35m Move up left to the line then straight up to the top. Kevin Lindorff, Peter Jacob. (var) 11.5.74

Manxome Foe 93m 13
Starts 70m right of Knave. 1. 28m Climb up 15m to a big ledge. Move to the back of the ledge and climb the obvious crack line to a good ledge on the right. 2. 34m Back left into the line and straight up to the base of the chimney which is blocked at the top by a chockstone. Climb this to a large bushy ledge. 3. 31m Traverse right until able to climb easily to the top. Kevin Lindorff, Peter Lindorff, Peter Jacob. (alt) 3.12.72

*Corum's Corner 25m 18
The prominent corner 14m right of Manxome Foe, scramble up to its base. May be undergraded. Paul Kinnison, John Margetts. 2.1.73

Gimbling 20m 20
The line immediately right of Corum's Corner. Scramble off after the obvious belay ledge. Kevin Lindorff, Peter Watson. 24.11.79