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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Grampians	Halls Gap	The Watchtower	(General)	[ Watchtower Guide \| Images ]

Topic Date User

Watchtower new bolted line. 6-Mar-2014 At 11:29:39 PM jrc

Message

>What about cleaning? The majority of cracks in the blue mountains had to be cleaned before they were climbed. Hardly leave no trace vs a bolt on face rock

so you were there ...which ones were cleaned ? which ones didn't need digging out ?

The unclimbed cracks in the wolgan were and are still surprisingly dirt free. Im not sure why all but a few others on the main mtns ridge were that different.

A climb like Eternity P1 has suffered a lot more from erosion of lichenous outer rock than it might have done by being dug out (go look at it), if that actually happened.

Anyway this thread is not about myth from the past it is about so called sport techniques (another name for bolt only protected rockclimbing) taking precedence over rockclimbing (called by the sportsters trad or traditional climbing as if it were some other activity than rockclimbing, by which it has always been known).

By the way i'd suggest you dont try too hard dirt cleaning on Psycho or Carthagenian.