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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Buffalo	Gorge	(General)	(General)	[ Gorge Guide ]

Topic Date User

Ozymandias and water 24-Jan-2014 At 2:56:35 PM brendan

Message

On 24/01/2014 Justcameron wrote:
>The description on thecrag and in the guide recommends splitting the pitch
>to big grassy at the ledge beforehand to avoid rope drag, that's what we'll
>probs do.
>
>http://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/buffalo/the-gorge-north-side/route/13015939
>
>Have bought some ladder aiders from the states, just got to hope they
>get here in time!
>
>Have been doing a little bit of practice aiding and jumaring around the
>local Adelaide cliffs.
>
>Still to practice hauling.
>
>It sounds like a 2 day ascent could be difficult with both of us new to
>aiding. Not sure of the best way for a 2.5-3 day ascent. We don't have
>a portaledge.
>
>Considering the following:
>
>Day 1 afternoon: Walk down south side, climb first pitch or two, fix ropes
>and sleep on the ground. (not sure if there is anywhere flat to sleep?
>saw a post from a couple of fellas who struggled to find somewhere. We
>would have 1x hammock so only need 1x flat spot, can use ropes/gear to
>build a nest)
>Day 2: jug fixed ropes, haul bag, get to big grassy, climb 2 pitches above
>and fix ropes. (if we were going faster I'm not sure if we could fix to
>the gledhill bivvy and rap back, or if it's too overhanging)
>Day 3: jug fixed ropes, summit.
>
>There are a couple of unknowns with this plan, and also the unpleasantness
>of repeatedly abseiling and jumaring up again

^^^This is what we did when we did ozzy for the first time. There are flat places to sleep closer to the river, if you try to sleep closer to the wall there is less options.