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Crag & Route Beta

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Topic Date User

Candlestick route info 29-Sep-2013 At 1:10:31 AM Mangani

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Here' s a little bit from when I climbed the candlestick about 1.5years ago;
After a wicked day on the tote with my climbing partner, we thought it would be great to take the girlfriends up the candlestick the following day. The bottom tyrolean is easy and only 10m or so but you need someone to swim out there first. We climbed as two parties of two following the grade 18 corners as this is the anchor you can see from the bottom of the chasm rap. We started late in the day expecting only 4 easy pitches of grade 16. Here's how it went.
First pitch knocked off rock and gashed friends arm doh...
Second pitch follow corner system and avoid all loose blocks yay
Third pitch climbed funky offwidth on the left instead of hand crack doh
Tyrolean rope got caught on just about everything doh
team below if taking a long time better help them instead of summiting
Looks like its getting kinda dark...
Rig tyrolean except the anchor on the pinnacle if about 15m higher than the mainland anchor doh its about 40m long
rapped down looking for another anchor, isn't one anywhere but did find the original route yay it starts behind the tote when you are standing on the chasm ledge
first person gets over the tyrolean yay its dark now doh
girlfriend gets jumar stuck and get exhausted in the middle of the chasm of doom doh (man I wish I taught her how to use it)
We all get onto the mainland yay its only 1am
Only a 2 hr walk back to camp, wish I carried more food doh
Wake up early to stich up friends arm damn thing wont stop bleeding