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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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Topic Date User
Candlestick route info 28-Sep-2013 At 11:41:17 AM Cam McKenzie
Message
There are a couple of routes up there. The original grade 16 one (which I haven't done) which goes up a bunch of widish cracks, and a grade 18ish one which follows a couple of pitches of corners, and then a ridge to to the 16 for the final pitch to the summit.

You can tyrolean to the start of the 18 so that only one person in the party has to do the swim. Our approach was:
-Fix a 60m rope from the mainland and rap to the base of the tote.
-Send someone over to the Candlestick trailing a rope
-Rig a tyrloean (there are bolts on the land side and on the candlestick side) and get zip over to the candlestick
-Climb two grade 18ish pitches trailing the fixed rap line that's attached to the land side anchors.
-Climb a ridge pitch (needed some shenanigans here to get the tyrolean rope around a few aretes)
-Fix the tyrolean rope to the anchor here and leave it behind.
-Climb another pitch to the summit
-Get glory shot on summit
-Rap back down to previous anchor
-Rig the tyrolean
-Zip back to the mainland for victory beers.

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