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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
All NSW	(General)	(General)	(General)

Topic Date User

grades in the wolgan? 24-Sep-2013 At 8:32:18 AM Nick Clow

Message

Grades in the Wolgan are generally on the money and in line with the routes you mention.

Sizzler, at the Coke Ovens, possibly used to be a little bit of sandbag at 18, but is now 19.

Re. Old Baldy, one or two of the routes on the lower cliff (maybe No Complications, Secret Swinger??) seem to be a bit tough for their advertised grades because I think the ground below them has eroded. As a result each has a hard start consisting of a big jump to a giant flexing choss-jug and heel-hooking wrestling match to get going, the difficulty of which is disproportionate to the rest of the climb. It's also quite likely that one of these jugs will come off and someone will have an accident.

If I were going to do routes on Upper Baldy, I wouldn't bother about doing anything on the Lower Cliff and I would instead walk round to the right and straight up to the half-way ledge. The quality of the rock and climbs on Lower Baldy is poor and you will not be missing much. (I have personal experience of several tons of 'Ghoul' falling off it whilst climbing it.)