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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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Topic Date User
The Phoenix (20) Resurrected! 19-Aug-2013 At 9:55:54 AM bjorniam
Yeah I did it as a single pitch. Took me ages... but I'm always slow when onsighting and the variety really keeps you thinking hard the whole way up. I wont ruin others onsight adventures but I definitely rate the finger crack section as the best I've climbed in the bluies (particularly if you commit to it and avoid using the arete down low and the ledge out left a the bottom of the tight constriction). The combination of pure crack climbing sections with balancy (sometimes quite hard) sequences around the crack makes it a real classic (and a great adventurous onsight).

We didnt see the routes on the headwall as we hadn't read about them at the time. They sound great though. Quetzal sounds like a great link up! Quetzalcoatl looks to hard for me atm.

Re the bottom access, I can see it being unpleasant with leeches but when its dry I would grade it at about a 2 or absolute max 3 (out of 10) on a scrub-bashing scale.

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