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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Grampians (General) (General) (General) [ Grampians Guide | Images ] 

Author
Secret 'beta' tricks
richie cunningham
11-Apr-2004
7:39:03 PM
gone
(removed)
16-Apr-2004
3:55:35 PM
I have plenty, it was all I could do to get up these routes ... any who know me know how weak I really am/was. Note that this is what I found most interesting about climbing ...

World Party Pitch II (27) - Slap the sloper at the crux with your right hand (feels completely wrong but works, thanks Dave Jones)

World Party Pitch III (24) - Have a little lie down in the roof before venturing out. Also, the only good jug over the lip is more left than right ... don't get scared now ...

High Dive (23) - No hander off the dinner plate with a calf lock before crux. Can be used on Lats in the Belfry, but if you're pumped here, you'll never do it anyway.

JetLag (28) - Tricky no hander on the It'll Never Fly jugs with a heel cammed into the wall. Very usefully placed IN THE MIDDLE OF THE CRUX ! I of course couldn't do the second (easier) crux because there were no tricks.

It'll Never Fly (23) / Have A Good Flight (25) - slightly easier no-hander further along the traverse with a high heel hook.

Mind Arthritis (27) - Crux, ignore the sloping crimps with masses of chalk, there is a hidden much smaller but way more positive crimp that gets cleaned below it (which no-one uses). Didn't tick the whole route though.

Henre Bolte (25) - (i) Use the miniature sidepull next to bolt atthe start of the crux (thanks Gordy), and (ii), span out right from crimps in the crux to a very positive edge that only I seemed to use. What a lot of people think is hard is really no more difficult than 24 done this way.

I did Fortress (26) different to everyone as well, but I don't know if it made it any easier than 26. Ask me if you get stuck.

Hueco Dreaming (24/25). Massive high right drop knee makes the last move static. Also makes the route about 23 ...

There's a knee bar no-hander in the end of the roof of Gorilla Tactics (26), although it's over by then anyway.

Spasm in a Chasm (25). There's two no "handers" here, both just before the crux: (i) lobbing your elbow over the knob on the right hand side of the block, and (ii) squatting down with your foot on top of the same blob. If you have any pump left before starting the crux you should be shot.

And don't ever forget Bard (12). Grab the bat-poo on the traverse ....

Actually I found quite a good trick later on which was to get stronger. I spent the first 5 years trying to find easier ways to do routes, then at last got a little stronger and didn't need the tricks anyway ... I recommend this method if at all possible.
(removed)
19-Apr-2004
3:15:37 PM
There's more than one no-hander on Mr J ...

I haven't done it, but a friend of mine who onsighted the bastard did "turn-out no-handers" (turn one leg out completely, park your heel on an appropriately large foot hold and use the torque to hold yourself into the wall.) all the way up.

For the record, there's (at least) one of these on Richmond Bridge as well, possibly two if you've got the knees that can handle the twisting.

adski
29-Apr-2004
2:57:48 PM
If your calves are pumped from the walk-in, there's a double knee bar no-hander *before* the first bolt on Weaveworld/Two Tribes..
James
5-May-2004
1:00:48 PM
hey fatboy, tell me more exactly about these 'twist you leg out no-handers'. I was trying to find 1 at Richmond Bridge but couldn't quite get it to stick. Do you stand on the inside or outside of your foot??

adski
5-May-2004
2:57:41 PM

>hey fatboy, tell me more exactly about these 'twist you leg out no-handers'.

sounds like you're almost sitting on your heel - works well when your 'heel-hold' protrudes somewhat and/or looks like a horn.

nmonteith
10-May-2004
11:07:23 AM
World Party third pitch... after many years of looking at this line I finally had a go after doing the first two pitches. No one wanted to second any of the lower pitches so i ended up setting off with my belayer 30m below and the rope clipped only throught the two rusty rings at the end of pitch 2. I have to say i totally freaked out and couldn't for the life of me work out how to get over the roof. I took a few screamers and finally gave up and bailed. I was expecting a classic stemming groove - but instead felt all my dreams had been dashed by the horrible sidways roof grovel I was trying to do. Any more beta hints? I think having a belayer close by - and carrying up some medium cams - would stop my freakout factor!

(removed)
11-May-2004
11:15:51 AM
My email response to Neil ...

"It's not really that hideous. Just traverse out the slopey roof the whole way (climb it like a real roof, left heel on the slopes hands leading), there's not much positive for your hands so don't bother looking, just accept that you have to pull on slopes and do it quickly because it gets pumpy. Go all the way to the very end (quite good hold right at lip), and then there's a decent pull back up and LEFT. The holds immediately above the end of the roof are not great. From there you can pull up into the groove. The pull over the lip is the crux, although you're more likely to fall off in the groove since it's so pumpy. Everything is rounded in the groove, even the positive jugs. And up near the top, it's a little run out and I ended up doing a "wrist-dyno" (fingers had nothing left, had to catch the holds with my wrists) onto the chicken heads facing an ENORMOUS fall. It's a magnificent mind trip.

Get someone to climb with you to the Pitch 2 belay though next time. If you fall over the lip while being belayed from the ground, you're going to end up a long way down indeed. How did you go with Pitch 2 ? I have some tricks for that bit as well. Dunno what it is about this climb, Tim Fahey belayed me on it, and he basically refused to give Pitch 3 a shot. They're missing out."
(removed)
11-May-2004
11:16:28 AM
On 5/05/2004 James wrote:
>hey fatboy, tell me more exactly about these 'twist you leg out no-handers'.
> I was trying to find 1 at Richmond Bridge but couldn't quite get it to
>stick. Do you stand on the inside or outside of your foot??

On your heel, cam your toes into the wall.

Good luck.

nmonteith
11-May-2004
11:18:39 AM
ok - i blame Mike the Canadian who was yelling up the bad beta abut grovelling along on my stomach instead of just climbign the roof like normal. Thanks Andrew!

There are 10 messages in this topic.

 

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