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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
All NSW	(General)	(General)	(General)

Topic Date User

Nikita - Shipley Lower 21-Jun-2013 At 7:00:50 PM cogsy

Message

I rebolted it about 5 years ago. It's all bolts. I'm surprised if you could get off it with a 60m rope...Jules was just making it with a 70 the other day.
The whole area bakes in the sun... it's a bit like climbing at Bowens. It's about 10 minutes further walk from the Blackheathen wall, heading under the waterfall.
Nikita is a little longer than it used to be, because we bolted the direct start on the little wall below the old start, to make it a more comfortable belay (ie from the ground instead of the ledge 8 metres up.
The top pitch isn't worth worrying about.... It's 20 grades easier than the rest of the route, so just lower off the new anchor.
The routes to the left are... "the unforgiven, 27" a really awesome old route of Mikls, "the Outlaw" a 29 by Steve G which is apparently very hard and thin and long. To the right is a 30 that Steve did which is absolutely desperate and quite run out!
There are 4 more good routes about 40 metres further on, all on rings. The 24 (sausages and lightbulbs) and 26 (Brisket tugger) are really great, and the 22 is a bit exciting and weird. Moniqe freed the project at 28....it's cruxy!
If you've got a 70m rope and lots of quickdraws you'll have no worries. (I think Nikita has 18 draws....we did it last week.)