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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Buffalo	Gorge	South Side	Angels' Buttress	[ Gorge Guide ]

Topic Date User

Mount Buffalo - WAFFT GPS 22-May-2013 At 12:24:22 AM phillipivan

Message

WW,

There are only three points where I think you are likely to get lost along the way, as for the most part there is an clear padded track, sometimes with a rope as mentioned.

The three points, where I imagine you might get lost, are at the start, passing mushroom rock, and at the end, finding the right point to scramble up, and the correct crack to start up. For much of the descent you have a good view of the Angels buttress. I suggest you take a few minutes to have a look and orient yourself with the topo as best you can; identify the ledges and transitions between crack systems. You may not have a good view of the upper reaches of the route, but you will have a prime view of the routes guts. This will also help you get a sense of where the route starts, and hence where you need to get to.

To find the start I have always followed the path past the run down old tennis courts, to a little lookout area on the left. This is just past the starting descent gully, and it is easy to backtrack through light scrub to intersect the path.
At the base of the climb, the normal route goes up the left most option, which involves about four metres of easy face climbing before you pull into the hand crack. There are some other cracks which come all the way down to the ground/starting ledge, some with bushes growing out of them, you don't want to climb these.

The buffalo guide has some useful notes about the approach.