In an ongoing effort to repeat many of the old neglected climbs on Mt Rosea [ie those not in the select guide] and verify the real grades, quality and route descriptions for the on line ACA guide I climbed Mugs Alley last week. We were using the description from the ACA guide but couldn’t find a top pitch that would go at anything like the required grade. In the end we found our own finish further over left.
When I got home I saw that the description for finding that last pitch had been changed from the description in the older published guides. The ACA description for P3 says ‘Walk left to the end of the overhang and a "corner arete".’ The “and a corner aręte” having been added to the original description. This change appears to be authored by Kieran. This change did not help, but perhaps was based on someones personal experience of the route. If anyone can enlighten me as to where the top pitch actually goes I can change the ACA description to make it clearer.
Other than that Mug’s Alley is quite good - sustained, interesting and well protected climbing at about grade 14. For anyone who has done Mixed Climb and is looking for a slightly harder route on Rosea I would recommend it. Climb the first 2 pitches then scoot to the LH end of the big ledge below the roofs to finish up the obvious jam crack [which is actually the last pitch of Holocaust].