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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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Topic Date User
Ebor Gorge 1-May-2013 At 8:05:59 PM Gov Junky
On 30/04/2013 mabsydney wrote:
>Can anyone who has actually climbed there tell me what the climbing is
>like at Ebor Gorge in the Northern Tablelands? Thinking of heading up there
>in June for some low to middle grade trad. Thanks.

I live in Armidale and put up many of the routes during the 70's and 80's. The surroundings are picturesque with the crags overlooking two waterfalls. There are 2 parking areas at the top with toilets. There is a pub in Ebor which is just accross the river - also a cafe. The crag doesn't get as much attention these days as local climbers seem to be more interested in bouldering. As a result the base of the crag has become quite overgrown in places due to the last two particularly rainy years up here. The rock is formed in irregular columns and there is a broad range of grades. It is a great place to brush up on your hand jamb technique as most of the climbs are crack climbs. The height of climbs ranges from about 5mtrs to about 20mtrs. There aren't that many climbs below about grade 14. Pro on the climbs between grades 14 and 21 is generally good but above that you're often talking about desperately hanging around trying to frig in small wires.
If you like, send me a PM and I'll give you my email adress. Access to most of the other crags around here demands local knowledge and perhaps I can help.

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