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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Arapiles	(General)	(General)	(General)	[ Arapiles Guide \| Arapiles Images ]

Topic Date User

Cam BD #5 purple is it needed for Arapiles? 24-Mar-2013 At 1:53:03 PM Dave_S

Message

I probably wouldn't bother bringing it. It might be useful at the end of pitch three, when you are laybacking up towards the belay ledge, but the last piece of pro before that layback is a bolt, so unless you're uncomfortable at that grade, you should be able to just leave it run out until you get to the ledge. The point on Watchtower where people lament not having big gear is more the start of the fourth pitch, where you're climbing an awkward offwidth from the ledge to a bolt about 4m up, and a fall could mean a factor 2 on the belay, or a painful bounce off the ledge. However, a BD #5 may not be big enough for that. I recall a BD #6 placed there being towards the limits of its expansion!

Oh yeah, and if you'll be climbing Watchtower Crack, get yourself two boltplates. (Maybe 3 if you have butterfingers.)