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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Buffalo	The Horn Environs	(General)	The Horn	[ Horn Guide ]

Topic Date User

Bolting at The Horn, Mount Buffalo 26-Feb-2013 At 4:03:54 PM Andrew Davis

Message

On 16/02/2013 lacto wrote:
>If you are being paid to take people climbing then surely you fall under
>the gentle rules of WORKCOVER . You are in serious breach of the law if
>you expose anyone to more than a 2 metre fall and place yourself and the
>company you work for in line for hefty fines and or a prison term . To
>comply with this would require 2m grid bolting.

I would expect free falling more than 2 metres onto a hard surface is unacceptable and could mess you up quite a bit resulting in some legal issue if you owe a duty of care to someone else, and its doesn't need to be a commercial operation or any money swapping hands. However many of us have safely 'fallen' on a dynamic rope much great than 2 metres with a fall factor less than 1 with not the smallest injury. That is workcover would be more concerned about being tied into a rope above 2 metre and that there was no chance of a ground/ ledge fall or forces generated anywhere near factor 2.

Thanks also 'climbingM9' for the update. Easter Island (9?) is excellent for new lead climbers to practice on and people here are entitled to their opinion but if you would rather be climbing M9 why would you give a concern about an 8 metre grade 9, while in the last 2 years many others have (estimate 50 climbs). It is an easy 2m step up onto the nose to clip the first bolt, as you stated the large dirty hole through the centre can be protected with a cam on the left, the first vertical crack will take a large cam (therefore the middle bolt not needed) however the top crack will not take anything that would take a decent shock load making a stumble on the top out potentially fatal with a gound or fall onto the nose ledge. Its very disappointing the top bolt has gone and that people who have never before cared to climb it now have a lot of interest in it because others find it a fun and novel beginners climb, and if you think something that high is only a boulder problem then you must be hard, because my body couldn't take a fall that big. The sequence in this climb is very different to LHV, with an easy start onto the nose and tougher finish, while i agree with the remarks about LHV, if you can get off the ledge you will have ample skill to stay safe on the top section.