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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Buffalo	The Horn Environs	(General)	The Horn	[ Horn Guide ]

Topic Date User

Bolting at The Horn, Mount Buffalo 13-Feb-2013 At 3:04:23 PM JMK

Message

I skipped 1 bolt on profanities. If you stay direct on the arête and do it in 1 pitch then the others seem ok ie not too close. I would sugest who ever strips it thinks of people who climb 17 and not 25. It seems a common occurrence for people who lead 25 or more that the bolts are close on the routes near their limit and far apart on routes that are say 17- 21 which is well below their limit. So if the bolts are there already do you thin it down for the 25 climber having a relaxing day or leave it in for the 16 climber pushing his grades? So who chooses? Whoever it is they are damned if they do and damned if they don't.

In my opinion this whole issue of fighting retro bolting is like holding back the tide. If any new bolts appeared on crags that I like and I was there I would pull them immediately eg if someone bolted flake crack or Solomon. Hmmm those bolts on Solomon are still there so maybe I am full of shit too.

20 years ago this issue of retro bolting did not exist. For those who started climbing in last 10 years they have climbed routes that have been retro'd and don't know any different. 20'years from now - I guess many more routes will be retro'd. Just so long areas retain their integrity eg araps remains clean etc. Buffalo was always going to be problematic as it has both trad and sport. Just ask people not to bolt next to cracks is about the best u can do. And if a bolt upsets u pull it out immediately. Don't talk about , just do it but also then publicize it as u don't want someone to start a route thinking 10 bolts and there are only 5.