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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Buffalo	The Horn Environs	(General)	The Horn	[ Horn Guide ]

Topic Date User

Bolting at The Horn, Mount Buffalo 13-Feb-2013 At 12:15:29 AM Andrew Davis

Message

>For my part, I started climbing somewhere with a strong mountain tradition
>and where climbing is a mentoring pursuit. We don't even have outdoor education
>in Utah because everybody actually does stuff in the outdoors. My dad had
>me crawling up rocks I shouldn't have been carrying fishing gear and guns
>by the time I was about 10. When you're fifteen and psyched on roped climbing
>you don't get taken out by ghastly knuckleheads from TAFE, you get taken
>out by a gruff bearded dude in his 50's called Jack that you met when you
>walked up to the base of the cliff to have a look around. He teaches you
>how to not kill yourself, respect the mountains, and then imparts the knowledge
>you need when you need it. When you have questions or want to know if you
>should splash bolts across those obvious and classic unclimbed boulders
>on the approach you call him and he kindly explains that, sure, you are
>free to do such a thing but it is probably not a good idea and the community
>might collectively frown. Then he'd take you out, have you set them up
>as a TR, and climb them with you. As was noted above, rigging safe TRs
>is the first thing noobs should be doing anyway.

>Rock is scarce in Oz, tread lightly.
>
>The Pintle LHV, direct sit start to the body sloper (unrated and doesn't
>need a bolt)
>

Singersmith a good read and your story makes sense from the background and opportunities you had climbing. Be great if we all had one of those 50 yo mentors, a little envious. But don’t disrespect or pay out on TAFE/UNI climbers, some may be knuckle heads like myself but most who choose to get into climbing are passionate about it and their stories may be quite different than your but just as legitimate.
Looking closely at your pic looks like you are jumping 4 metres above the start of pintle 2nd pitch to base of LHV. That is some monkey move without a rope, no wonder you don’t need bolts, but I hope you don’t think most others would want to try the same move.