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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Buffalo	The Horn Environs	(General)	The Horn	[ Horn Guide ]

Topic Date User

Bolting at The Horn, Mount Buffalo 13-Feb-2013 At 12:06:34 AM Andrew Davis

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M9- l stood at the stone hut on 9 December and amazed as I watching an older couple climb up down across and all over Wall of China following no particular route marked in the guide, unfortunately it’s a bit beyond me but I guess they are the sort of climber you would like to preserve Buffalos thousands of slabs and climbable rock surfaces for. While I admire their skill but is there also no room for even just 2 or 3 climbs in a small area that are bolted grade 7-9. Previously the granite on those climbs was poor quality very loose large crystals that would roll and fall under your toes. Looking at that picture it looks like its had some traffic in the last 2 summers and has gone from a dark weathered grey to a cleaner light granite. Doubt if any climbing monkeys would have bothered on either previously but I think quite a few newer climbers have since

Here is that list of bolted climbs in the HORN AREA not the entire region with Mothballs and China. Ive tried them all at some point and fallen my way up a few of them. The list from the top level down to Parrot
1. Peroxide
2. Hoi Poloi
3. Waiting for Bangla
4. Stone the Crows
5. Glitterato
6. Paparazzi Nazi
7. Address to Haggis
8. Big Fun
9. They Dance Alone
10. Songlines
11. Change of Heart
12. Rent a Crowd
13. Crowlands
14. Parrot on a Stick
15. Profanities (since 2008/9)
In comparison I only know a few good trad lines on this same area at the Horn
• Pintle x2
• LHV
• Dick Selector
and a coulple more not so good