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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Buffalo	The Horn Environs	(General)	The Horn	[ Horn Guide ]

Topic Date User

Bolting at The Horn, Mount Buffalo 8-Feb-2013 At 11:04:04 PM Andrew Davis

Message

Thanks Andrew C, yeah the vigorously testing was lifting the edge by hand as it would lift just a few mm, then stomping on it with a heal which resulted in the top right edge breaking off in two thin brittle smaller pieces. A climber i know decided a bolt was better than a death soon after that as they were certain the flake would definitely give up a nut if shock loaded by an adult sliding/falling. A discussion at that time with a climbing identity thought a small RP in the top of the thin crack on the left of the flake would arrest a fall (if you know the climb you will know it) but after trying so many pieces in that area he felt it would be more likely to pop also if the top piece gave (which it would), in which case would lead to a likely fatal fall onto the ledge top of Yeah boys.

I climbed and guided LHV at least 20 times a year from 2003- 2009, but with the advent of Profanities I started guiding up it for a long exciting arete with exposure and great views along with Big Fun and using Pintle start and Dick Selector for crack and placement experience. I haven't been on LHV since March 2010 but back then it looked like the pic someone kindly posted here (great pic btw). Its not clear but i get the impression from what 'M9' says that it no longer looks like that. Im not answering all of the jury's questions as they would like but im not hiding either, and as you would gather from The Crag i think im a bit of an expert on the area, god knows ive crawled about ever centimeter of it, but if it now looks any different than the picture above shows then i have no idea.