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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
All NSW	(General)	(General)	(General)

Topic Date User

Kaputar - Euglah Rock 21-Jan-2013 At 1:34:53 PM vwills

Message

Hi Ian,
Still yet to get back to the Darrans in good weather in summer (have tried twice since that first visit)- though had great ice last July.
Been to Kaputar a few times recently. The place grows on you esp once you master the language of the guide book recommendations :) Thunderbirds are Go was great chossy heart in mouth adventure with the 15 min approach taking 45 min with a rappel off a tree (got lost the first time I triedto find it 5 years ago.) The Orgasmatron- "voluptuous rock"!!? :) Malice through the looking glass and Borrowed Time were 2 stand outs from the last visit.

Its likely to have been the last 12 months that Lindsey got done over big time. It was pretty appalling. Deep Water has been bolted fully. There are lines of bolts eitherside of Torpid (these routes were OK though unecessary and dont seem to replace existing routes). Pork Orgy fully retrobolted. Miss Muffet made obsolete by new bolted line and another contrived variant on other side of arete.Sanity Clause, Rack and Ruin and Gobbledegook and Age of reason all have been turned into sports climbs.
The Idle Rich had 2 bolts (changes to that route go back a few years) as does a route near Deadly nightshade. There are a few other routes that seemed to be actual new routes of value (albeit sports routes) that go back at least 2 years.

At Euglah the Last Waltz/ Fantastic Four start has been effectively "retroed" with a bolt as there is now a direct start to the 23, Pink Slip. This is actually a good climb with 3 bolts on the slab then into the crack on gear. The Last Waltz itself is really untouched and the starting bolt doesnt change the character of the route. This rebolting is at least a few years old, but many other aretes have been done more recently.

I was interested to see what rangers know but didnt want to inflame a situation so havent asked....
cheers
Vanessa