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Crag & Route Beta

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Topic Date User

Kaputar - Euglah Rock 10-Jan-2013 At 10:57:57 AM bigfish

Message

I would like to start a discussion on the Euglah rock at Kaputar. After a recent trip there climbing around the euglah rock i have a few concerns with the quality of bolting there.

My first point was with the way some of the bolts are.
I was climbing The Last Waltz and came across a fixed hanger with the sleeve of the expansion bolt squashed under the hanger. I'm a tradie so i know what a solid expansion bolt should look like. This Hanger had half of the sleeve squashed behind the hanger not flat but twisted under it. And closer looking at the bolt showed that the thread had been cut off, so who knows how much of the thread was in the hole. So after i bailed on this route due to bad rock and bolts i climbed Protocol. It actually had the same type of fixed hangers. On this route i noticed that all the expansion bolts where the gold gal type of expansion bolts, not the standard stainless ones.

So after this i did a bit more exploring around deciding to go with the trad routes only. Anyway on the Sth side of the mountain i found 3 sport climbs with the numbers 22, 23 and 22 chiselled into the rock using a drill bit to make sequential holes in the shape of the number, to show the start of the climb. I have travelled a lot around the world climbing and i thought this was sacrilege in the climbing world. I could not believe that someone would use their drill to do this, leave it permanently marked there right at head height. And they were not small numbers, each digit approx 60mm x 40mm, with an 8mm drill bit.

Anyway i thought i would put this out there in the climbing community to see what others thought.

happy climbing