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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
All NSW	(General)	(General)	(General)

Topic Date User

Ripper Zipper 2-Jan-2013 At 5:58:55 PM kuu

Message

On 2/01/2013 jrc wrote:
> (snip)

" At least Aunty Jack is still bolt free; Ross can rest in peace. "

Yes, but for how long?

Recently on Chockstone there was a thread discussing the pros and cons of placing/replacing bolts on "Spartan" at Mt Piddington. Part of the debate focussed on the need (idea?) of gaining approval from the FA. I would suggest that modern-day bolters rarely, if ever, do this. Which accords with the popular defence that "The FA doesn't own the rock".

Logically, of course, said modern-day bolter has no claim to ownership of the rock either, so it becomes a philosophical or moot point.

Thus I fear that sooner or later the "heritage" left to us by Ross Vining (and others) will be sullied when some aspiring climber decides he/she could lead Aunty Jack (or any of a hundred other climbs) if only it had a few bolts added.

Strategically placed, a bolt or two could transform Aunty Jack from a Red route into a Yellow route! Place a few more bolts and it could even be a Blue route.