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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All NSW (General) (General) (General)  

Topic Date User
Rings on Return of the Toe Cutter Gang - Mt York 3-Jan-2013 At 8:28:43 AM Nick Clow
Message
I agree John

My views also (for what they are worth):

1) Rings are fine at 'new school' sport climbing crags like Logan Brae, The Freezer, Bowen's Creek, The Glen etc, where the nature of the climbing and rock makes for good sport climbing.

2) Rings do not belong at 'old school' crags like Piddington, York, Zigzag, Cosmic etc, where the climbing and established style is for routes to be on gear/carrots and the odd fixed hanger where necessary (i.e. this is not sport climbing).

Unfortunately, this argument is a bit late in the day as rings started appearing at crags mentioned in 2) about 7 or 8 years ago.

I would further say that if I was writing a guidebook for the Blue Mountains I would use French sport grades (e.g. 7a+, 7c, whatever) for sport crags and Ewbank grades at 'old school' crags. It might help people (especially those coming into climbing from gyms) understand the difference.

There are 383 replies to this topic.

 

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