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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Buffalo	(General)	(General)	(General)	[ Mt Buffalo Guide \| Images ]

Topic Date User

Where Angels Fear to Tread - bloody epic 23-Nov-2012 At 4:48:28 PM Will_P

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So I realised with embarrassment that I've done something I hate - talking about something before doing it. Makes me feel like I'm spraying - thanks for the lack of 'stop talking about it and just get on you spray-princess!' responses which I would've half-expected with more forethought.

More seriously though, thanks for the advice (and the horror stories). Was definitely planning on a pre-dawn start for the walk-in, and scoping of the approach beforehand. The tip about caching some water is appreciated, as is the beta about gear (four #4's? Goddamn, I can climb 17 most everywhere, but maybe not with that kinda weight, along with H2O, shoes, a #5 for pitch 6, cigarettes...). ODL - I don't think Nick is being a prick, he's just more comfortable with that kinda spacing of gear than me! And why does it have to be Jan? Because that's when I'm next there. If it's 40C, I'll leave it for another time, but, while we'll climb as fast as we can, I'm not going up it expecting 'fun'. And Cam - long time! (I was reminded of our first day climbing together when, the other weekend at Araps, I got partway up XI before realising I didn't have any quickdraws - like on the late Stegalosaurus) Thanks for the tip, but I reckon I'll pass on finishing up Caligula.

But really, my secret weapon is a work colleague who has offered me pitch-by-pitch beta, and he sounded (and looked from the photos) like he cruised it. I'll build up my confidence, then just never look up while on the route, just focus on one jam at a time.

Thanks again, Chockstoners. Back to the horror stories...