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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Buffalo	(General)	(General)	(General)	[ Mt Buffalo Guide \| Images ]

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Where Angels Fear to Tread - bloody epic 23-Nov-2012 At 10:06:06 AM Mike Bee

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I can report another epic.

Did it with a mate last December. We figured 6 long pitches or so at 17 should be 6 hours max, so we took a muesli bar (to share) and 1.5L water total.

11 hours later we stumbled back to the tope of the crevasse, seriously dehydrated and completely wasted.

That said, simply one of the most fun days of climbing I've ever done. I can do hand jams a bit, but it's slightly flaring and wider than I expected, so I ended up aiding a lot of it (hence the slow speed). My partner wasn't much of a crack climber at all, so he ended up prussiking most of the route, while I freed/aided the thing on lead. Once we got out of the crack and past the little chimney, an afternoon thunderstom blew in and was bloody close to us, so that added a good bit of fear to the whole experience too. We got lost on the last pitch or two, and ended up too far to the climbers right pulling on tree roots, digging out cam placements with our nut tools etc. The #4 BD Camalot was my most favoured piece of gear for that climb. I'd take two of them if you could source them. #3 and #2 were also nice to have as doubles.

Highly recommended, but this isn't you average Araps grade 17 multipitch, so don't underestimate it like we did.