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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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VIC Southwest You Yangs Gravel Pit Tor (General) [ You Yangs Guide | Images ] 

Topic Date User
The first bolt on Question of Ethics (You Yangs) 2-Nov-2012 At 5:48:24 PM Dave C
On 2/11/2012 rolsen1 wrote:
>On 1/11/2012 Dave C wrote:
>>Personally, I would seriously think of dragging myself up the road
>>to remove any extra bolt that appears on QoE, it's one of only a few
>>in the You-Yangs with any real character and I would not like it to be
>>reduced to an easy sport-route.
>Clearly it is not going to be retro'd with gdfonc's attitude and your
>threats to remove a bolt that doesn't exist add nothing to this discussion.
>Having said that none of the arguments in this thread make sense. How
>can anyone justify the best climb at it's grade in the youies needing to
>be either stick clipped or require a pad. The fact that Carrigan is stick
>clipping the climb speaks volumes, the fact that you know more than one
>person who has hobbled away after falling before the first bolt isn't good
>enough. The best climb at the grade doesn't need "real character" it has
>enough going for it. Adding a single bolt wouldn't make it an "easy sport
>route" it would just mean it could be climbed like all other climbs at
>the grade at the youies, without a cheat stick or a pad.
>Also, I bet the climbs on the other side of the Tor get a lot more leads,
>not because they are better climbs but because they don't need extra things
>to climb them safely.

Me thinks you doth complain too much. Just a few points in reply:
1. There are one or two people making enough noise that they may think about adding a bolt. I am not threatening anything, but you can be sure any retro bolt added is likely to be removed - by somebody else if not by me.

2. Whether you think I have "added to the discussion" really doesn't concern me, it's my local area (very, very local in fact) and QoE is one of the few really interesting little routes there and does not need re-packaging for popular consumption. I am in total agreement with Dalai, BA et al.

3. Kim was not stick-clipping the route for himself, he was doing it so his then girlfriend could have a crack at it without doing what was then a very loose start due to fire damage from the previous summer. In fact I think Kim had actually soloed it earlier in the day (gulp!) - although it may have been Steve Monks who I think was around that day as well.

Finally, could Mikl please explain why he only put one bolt in Mean Streak!!!??? I made it to the bolt once from the ground but bailed out without much further ado.

There are 57 replies to this topic.


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