On 31/10/2012 jdb wrote:
>I was just wondering as to whether anyone out there had taken the fall
>before clipping the first bolt on Question of Ethics(20), and how it ended
I've seen a couple of people fluff that start over the years, neither fell down the extra step (you actually don't land that close to it as I recall) and they both hobbled away with a few bruises. That start was a whole lot scarier for the first few months after the fire of '85 as pretty much every hold that survived below the first bolt was an exfoliating flake likely to crumble or explode when used. Nice!
There always used to be a cheat stick lying at the base back in the day ( I have a picture of a well-known 80s climbing personality using it!)
A decent pad and a good spotter seems to be popular these days - I've seen a few people heading up there with pads in recent years and guessed that is what they were taking them for - which strikes me as being a good option. Personally, I would seriously think of dragging myself up the road to remove any extra bolt that appears on QoE, it's one of only a few routes in the You-Yangs with any real character and I would not like it to be reduced to an easy sport-route.