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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Arapiles	Bard Buttress	(General)	(General)	[ Arapiles Guide \| Arapiles Images ]

Topic Date User

XI 23-Oct-2012 At 3:43:46 PM Will_P

Message

At the risk of starting a repeat of a long-standing debate... and at the risk of being accused of wanting to sanitise and suburbanise the trad experience... the route description of XI ("ex-eye" or "eleven" or "zee"?) says that after the run-out start, the hollow flake takes good RPs behind it. My question is (I'm not asking for exact, specific beta here...) if I go up without the smallest couple of RPs, am I going to get any decent gear in there, or will I die (the only two options, I'm pretty sure). Is this just handy Araps vernacular for 'take small wires', or is it 'if you don't have RP brass nuts of size 0-5 you won't get any gear in'? Thanks in advance...