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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
All NSW	(General)	(General)	(General)

Topic Date User

Rings on 14-Aug-2012 At 4:21:21 PM Nick Clow

Message

> I just don't understand that. I prefer to try to onsight safe routes, rather than dogging dangerous ones into submission................but I have a lot of respect for people who can execute difficult moves in a situation where failure will lead to serious injury. Despite the rehersal, they're still risking an awful lot more than someone with a bolt 1m below their feet.

At the risk of sensible discussion taking place... I hear what you say, but we are talking about different styles of tackling the same route.

If you look at another example, let me ask you which is the 'better' style of ascent? A 'not-too-bold but nevertheless a bit serious' route would be something like Satanic Majesty as Frog. Which is 'best', A or B?

A. Someone has given you important beta e.g. you that you need something like a 2 RP and a green alien (or whatever) is good for the crux. This immediately reduces your potential onsight attempt to a flash if you get it first time. (A bit of help analagous to having the first bolt clipped on TRtS.) You attempt to flash the route, but take a winger on the small gear on the crux. You get back on it and get through the crux this time. You carry on up the route placing gear as you go. You pull the rope and then climb the route clean next go.

B. You toprope the route. Naturally you get to check out the all the moves, all the potential gear placements, what run outs there are etc, etc. You work out how to do the moves and you know that you can do them. You haven't even committed to the route because you may only decide to lead it AFTER toproping it. You then get on the route, taking exactly what gear you need and do it clean.