On 14/08/2012 Nick Clow wrote:
>Just food for thought ODH - if you onsighted or did the route ground up
>with the first bolt-preclipped, then you would still actually be doing
>it in better style than 'headpointing' it.
I really should have a look at this route to see what the deal is. My understanding is that with the retrobolts it had potential for reasonable falls but no grounders (I'm hoping that the same goes with having the bolt at 10m preclipped)
As it's been made to sound, the gear before the first bolt is pretty shit, so a 10m groundfall is on the cards for a headpointed ascent. It's fuching ridiculous to try and establish an exchange rate between onsighting protected climbs and doing dangerous climbing after rehersal (although this seems to be the basis for stupid English grades)
Headpointing routes which offer serious injury is much more difficult than onsighting safe moves. Anyone who tells you otherwise is either suicidal or delusional.