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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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Topic Date User
Rings on 7-Aug-2012 At 6:43:59 PM hangdog
On 7/08/2012 One Day Hero wrote:

>Am I close?
Not even near. Unlike yourself i am under no illusion as to where i stand in the overall scheme of things. Still haven't ticked big numbers,its not why i climb (luckily because i was never going to be good at it). Your comments about me say more about you than me.

>No, having the bolts there changes things. We've been through this, much
>better for the pussies to toprope than the hardmen skip bolts. Notice how
>everyone else responding to you is also saying the same thing?

The only thing the bolts do is allow others to climb these routes. What bothers you so much about this? The fear that even with the extra pro you will get shut down.

>This is a bit of a tangent, but it kinda shows how little you know about
>climbing. For vertical routes dependant on edging small, positive holds,
>stiff shoes make it grades easier. Boreal rubber was not the best, but
>Aces or Ballets resoled with 5.10 rubber were about as good as it ever
>got for edging. (notice how Tommy Caldwell's expensive new signature shoe
>looks more or less the same as a hightop from the 80's?). Anyway, none
>of this is news to the good climbers I know. Everyone smart has worked
>out that shoes have generally gotten better for steep stuff but worse for
>vertical edging and slabs.

So i shall hear about your ascent of WB routes in an old pair of high tops now. Or will you pull on a modern pair of edging shoes? Five Ten make a good one,didnt sell well here. i guess everyone was still using their old aces for the hard walls.

>Yeah, I bet you didn't get a whole lot of respect from the hardmen back
>then. Must be disappointing to outlast them, only to find that your attempts
>to pussify climbing are still not welcome.

Dont reflect your own angst onto me. I never got into climbing to gain respect from hardmen. Does it still upset you that you never got the respect you so obviously deserved?
>btw, I don't need to drive up to chop your faggy retrobolts, sounds like
>the locals will see to it in short order.

You have gone off half kocked on this one. Never bolted of chopped any of these or any other routes. All i did was voice an opinion on the bolting of routes. So do what you want . As the mouthpiece of the disenfranchised i am sure you have plenty of help.

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