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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
All QLD	(General)	(General)	(General)

Topic Date User

Rack for frog 3-Jul-2012 At 9:11:37 AM Nick Clow

Message

To paraphrase something Mike Law once said (he was actually talking about the Blue Mountains and grade 20), you have to be some kind of hero to lead under grade 19 at Frog :)

You might be a little under-gunned with that rack if you are on a trad/crack learning curve. However, there are some shorter pitches of nice climbing in that 'up to grade 17' range, which you can easily lead with a limited rack.

Wendy's suggestions are pretty good, and I would also endorse/add:
- Witches Cauldron 12 is short and quite friendly
- Rest Area Ahead 15 (near the above) is pleasant, not too hard and short
- Faki 14 is a nice corner at the right of the ledge above these climbs
- Integrated Logic something?? 17, up L of Faki, is pretty good
- Micron 16 is amongst the best at the crag at or below 17 (another short climb)
- Elastic Rurp 17 is too
- Winston Alley 16 (17?) is another short technical gem easily protected on a small rack
- Clockwork Orange is a crag clasic at 13
- Devils Wart 15, not done it but there is often a queue for this corner at the v far end of the crag, R of Garbage and the Goddess.

You would probably want to avoid the following if not that solid at 17:
- If 17 (no pro at the start)
- Liquid Laughter Layback 17 (has had one or two accidents)
- Resurrection Corner - now 18? Was a bit of a sandbag at 17 with a hard start and grunty, ugly climbing higher up.

Will be there from Monday next week (Nick and Matt), so maybe see you there.