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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
All NSW	(General)	(General)	(General)

Topic Date User

The Fear - North Head 13-May-2007 At 6:23:19 PM for fox sake

Message

Any more info on that route Bundy, worth a day trip for someone already
visiting Sydney?

The Sydney climbing page doesn't exactly give Nth Coogee the thumbs up.

Access:-

Like Bundy said, walk northwards along the white fence till you see the large overhang platform, the route is on the northern part of it (southwards facing wall).

Route info:-

Tie a rap rope to the fence post, rap off and place a #4 cam in a very sandy break! Also put a draw onto the 1st bolt and put your lead rope through it (the first bolt is about 8m up coz the bottom is very friable)

Big sandy holds then onto Arete, rock quality improves here, get to a rest before the traverse. Holds in the break are good. Exposure is a little unnerving!

Further south on the same cliff line is Dry Reachin' grade 23, on carrots with plates already attached (the bolts are so deeply placed that they are basically fixed hangers)

Route info:-
Step off the block onto thin crimps, then a burly move to a good rest, up to sandy ledge and then pockets to the top