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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Buffalo	The Horn Environs	(General)	Dreamworld	[ Horn Guide ]

Topic Date User

Dreamworld - New Route or Variant? 16-Feb-2012 At 2:52:20 AM BenHev

Message

On 15/02/2012 kieranl wrote:
>On 15/02/2012 pecheur wrote:
>>Well I pulled out my VCC Buffalo guide and it has Spaceman Spiff finishing
>>as for Dead Heart. I'm certainly not saying that's correct given Kieran's
>>knowledge of the rock in question. However if Joe was working off the
>>guidebook then basically everything from the middle to the top of the
>>climb would be new.
>>
>Presumably that's the most recent Buffalo guide, which I haven't got around
>to buying because I haven't been to Buffalo for years. It's incorrect.
>The writeup in the Boreham/Brereton guide is a bit vague and doesn't actually
>describe Spaceman Spiff in relation to Dead Heart but Buffalo Soldier is
>the one that finishes up Dead Heart. Joe did do a lot of work on the Buffalo
>guide so if he was then working from it and it's wrong then it's all a
>bit self-referential.

The write ups for Buffalo Soldier, Spaceman Spiff, The Dead Heart and This Is Not Our Land are esentially the same in the Lindorff/Murray as in the Boreham/Brereton guide:

Spaceman Spiff
old+new> Starts 2m R of This Is Not Our Land on a short diagonal flake. Straight up the wall to a R facing flake then step R to finish up the shallow groove.

The Dead Heart
old> Take wires,TCUs, slings, a #2 Friend and a double sling. Start 1/2m R of This Is Not Our Land. Climb the face moving diagonally R across the middle of the face to finish up the short crack near the R end of the face.
new> Take wires, small and medium cams and a double sling. Start 0.5 m R of This Is Not Our Land. Climb the face moving diagonally R across the middle of the face to finish up the short crack near the R end of the face.

kieranl, you say the Boreham/Brereton guide is a bit vague, does that mean there was once a better description, or was the first ascentionist vague?

If SS had said "The R side of the dyke" (as TINOL says "The L side of the dyke") there wouldn't be a problem...

The difference is the new guide has a topo, and who ever drew SS (Simon?) thought "Straight up the wall to a R facing flake" was to a R facing flake out on the wall, not the right side of the dyke as you seem to suggest it goes. So the line goes staright up to that. The text also doesn't mention that SS and DH must meet and cross somewhere, so the topo lines don't cross, just meet up above the R facing flake. (The line for DH looks correct, judging by kieranl's photos.)
The topo lines match the text, and leave plenty of room for a "new" route.
Lesson, if you do a new route, don't be vague.