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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
All NSW	(General)	(General)	(General)

Topic Date User

Shackles and the sheriff of Shipley 29-Apr-2011 At 7:19:13 PM freesolo

Message

most of the people i learned with and climbed with the first few years, rapped cleaned to reduce wear on fixed gear. i was quite shocked when i went to a popular area and got on a classic route and found the hangers!! worn halfway thru from people lowering/toproping off of hangers.

unless the routes is extremely overhanging, rap cleaning is a piece of piss. if you don't know how to safely re-thread the rope, and rap, you really shouldn't be climbing anything above your partner's limit (so that they can do the cleaning for you)

80% of n. american's top rope off their own draws. 60% of europeans do, and unfortunately, most asians lower off the anchor because they are idiots.

as far as Aussies, it's a mixed bag depending on the Bluies or Araps climber. i would guess 50% of Aussies lower off of anchors.