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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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Topic Date User

Retrobolt? - Protection on Auto Da Fe (Arapiles) 27-Apr-2011 At 8:44:48 PM jezza

Message

I'm just kidding, of course. Actually, I was hoping to hear other people's experience with the first pitch of Auto Da Fe. I climbed it yesterday, and was a little disappointed. It wasn't consistent at all, and seemed contrived. Maybe the second pitch is where it's at? We ran out of time and didn't get on it. The Confession (next door) is a really good climb.

START beta climb='Auto Da Fe'
Climbed to the hole, and then straight up for about a metre or two on thin ground. Felt a bit silly, because there's good holds < 2m to the left and about 2m to the right. Arrived at easy ground. Kept on climbing straight up. Went thin for a while, then back to easy ground. Kept climbing straight up. I'm still directly above the hole. 'This can't be the climb, it doesn't feel like a 21'. _Downclimbed_ a few metres and traversed left a metre or so to reach another thin section (!!!!!). I'm now maybe 25m up and slightly left of the initial hole. Enjoyed that for a while. There's good holds to the right that I'm consciously avoiding!! Then back on easier ground. Then the hard bit at the end, which was really good.
FINISH beta