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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
All NSW	(General)	(General)	(General)

Topic Date User

Shackles and the sheriff of Shipley 26-Apr-2011 At 3:08:19 PM Marssan

Message

On 26/04/2011 rolsen1 wrote:

>
>Rubbish, you can't have it both ways, either no one lowers off or everyone
>can.
>
>So the accepted "middle ground" allows leaders to lower off anchors but
>not top ropers? If it is good enough for leaders to lower off an anchor
>than it is good enough for anyone. Yes, I agree but we should all try
>to minimise wear on any fixed gear but this just hero leaders looking down
>on top ropers, period.

@ Rolsen. You may have missed my point.

In the "middle ground" option whether it's a leader or top-roper, only the LAST climber of the group is lowered with the rope directly through the rings.

There is no "looking down" upon top ropers. I do plenty of top-roping myself - only never with the rope threaded through the rings

>
>If a leader leads the route and lowers and cleans the route then a second
>person leads the route and they both take the "middle ground" approach
>then there is exactly the same wear on the anchors as the leader who leads
>the route and lowers and then the second who top ropes and lowers.

No no no no. You have definitely missed my point.
The first climber would not clean the anchor draws, therefore lowering the first climber would not cause wear on the rings. Whether it''s a leader or a top-roper, only the last climber gets lowered through the rings directly.

>
>What about if I don't want you to place any bolts at a crag at all? Does
>that make it all right for me to go and yell at those who placed the bolts?

Now you're talking about something completely unrelated and much much more subjective. This ain't the place.