Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
All NSW	(General)	(General)	(General)

Topic Date User

Shackles and the sheriff of Shipley 21-Apr-2011 At 5:00:32 PM Linze

Message

was always gonna be a tough battle this one...should have just put it in trip reports!... oh well, will fight on regardless..

>However when someone who is consuming that donated resource suddenly feels
>a sense of entitlement that they should be allowed to bump their rate of
>consumption up to 5 or 10 times that amount, then you surely must be able
>to understand that the donors of that resource are justified in their concern.
> You're stealing a disproportionate amount of something that they donated
>to the broader community.

i think you kinda missed my original point. i dont promote top roping off the anchor, but seeing as some will do it lots, some will do it sometimes and some will do it never, it is not worth taking anywhere near as seriously as people do. no matter what you do it is always going to happen on this kind of route. So, rather than putting up shackles, which is inevitably going to cause vexation, why not put in a couple of biners, it seems appropiate given the likely use... plus it will also be much easier for the common climber to replace them when they look bad. maybe this is one case where it is just better to recognise that it is a bit of a lost cause and let it slide when it is not a massive problem?

the other point was that everyone does things that create more wear than nessesary, and so i am offended by the notion that we blame the bumblies that could do with an extra bit of comfort/one less challenge. why not give me a hard time for lowering when i could rap (or even back jump if we are so committed to anchor preservation)? instead people are happy to harass the poor helmeted folks that are leashed to the nearest tree and cant escape (and who are, probably not feeling a sense of entitlement so much as just trying to survive a day out) - maybe becasue they know that these people wont bite back???

also the 'runs on the board' thing gripes me... i commend those who rebolt a lot, but those that bolt and think it elevates their position or authority can p*&s off, once you leave your steel in the wall you can offer all the advice you want, but have no actual 'right' to say how it is used.