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Crag & Route Beta

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Topic Date User

Shackles and the sheriff of Shipley 21-Apr-2011 At 2:31:32 PM hotgemini

Message

On 21/04/2011 Linze wrote:
>Bundy - yeah I can see how it is frustrating for those that do contribute
>that others dont, but contributing should be for its own sake without expectation
>of 'appreciation'... maybe there is some other aspect of life where people
>like you and the Sheriff dont carry an extra burden, and so someone else
>has to pick up the slack...??

Let me try a different angle. Some person or group of people have created a resource which they're happy to allow you to use, but they'd really appreciate it if you took some steps to keep the rate of depletion of that resource to the level that they envisioned when they put the hard work in to make it available to you.

Now in the case of routes with a 'clip and lower' type anchor, or steep routes which lend themselves to or require cleaning on lower, then the people who volunteered their time and often their own money to create that resource will have recognised that this would be the usage that would occur. I don't think you'll find anyone who begrudges lowering off those routes, or for that matter, anyone who seriously cares about rapping (0.64kJ) versus lowering (23.5kJ) off routes.

However when someone who is consuming that donated resource suddenly feels a sense of entitlement that they should be allowed to bump their rate of consumption up to 5 or 10 times that amount, then you surely must be able to understand that the donors of that resource are justified in their concern. You're stealing a disproportionate amount of something that they donated to the broader community.

Here's the rub, until you've got the runs on the board for contributing a significant amount, you're really not in a position to understand the effort involved in creating that resource and it's simply an extension of general courtesy to respect the reasonable requests of those people who donated the resource.

You can come here and argue that they don't donate their resource proportionately, or the expectations for the manner of consumption of that resource differ between certain classes of climber. But what you're doing is criticising the very very small group of people who do make a significant contribution and in my opinion at least it really isn't fair to do so.

How about this, if you're willing to donate $1000 to get it started, I'm happy to work with you on a donation drive to try to match it dollar for dollar to upgrade a whole pile more anchors at shipley/porters/centennial to best practice stainless clip and lower stations, then you go and install them all and we wait until they've worn out (call it ~2014-2016) and then we sit down and discuss how you feel and compare and contrast with your current views. Note, I'm entirely serious, view my "target 1500" fundraising drive on qurank for proof of my credentials.

-Adam.