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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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Topic Date User

Shackles and the sheriff of Shipley 21-Apr-2011 At 9:13:37 AM Linze

Message

On 21/04/2011 hotgemini wrote:
>I'll add my voice to the chorus. YES, it matters. Fixed hardware wears
>comfortable faster than most people think. Anything down to 12 months
>for 10mm hardware to go from brand new to terrifyingly worn depending on
>the usage levels and whether or not people toprope through it.

...yeah i have heard this a bunch of times, hence my earlier statment which seems to have been MISSED that i do seldom top tope of the fixed anchors... what no one seems to actually be able to clear up is how much differece does it make?? as i see it, surely the anchors are not going to wear that much untill a weighted rope is running on them, and so is a top roper making any diffenenced to someone who is cleaning it?? i CAN see how it would make a difference if there was happening all day, but really, is one person in a party of tewo gonna make much difference?? rather than just repeating the heresay, does anyone have a realistic idea of HOW MUCH diference it makes??

and regardless, my other point stands, becasue it is a high traffic route for inexperienced climbers, no matter how much we would like everyone to behave in 'the ethical' manner, it just aint gonna happen, and so is it not better to equip such routes with stuff that can be easily replaced... just sucking it up and putting a new biner up (a worst case scenario of every 12 months doesnt actaully seem that bad to me) seems to me to be be a better option than blaming the least expericed climbers that go climbing once every two years for ruining our lives, i have replaced biners at nowra a bunch of times when i came across ones that loooked old, and it didnt really ruin my life .... it would be a problem that is limited to only a few routes becasue when people are more experienced, they will either understand, or have no need to top rope...

more than anything, i am affronted by 1. that when people do this sort of stuff, some seasoned mountians 'expert' barks orders at them (and i am not only talking about the Sherrif), really, it is just a bit of steel ... 2 how many of those that whinge about this kinda stuff wouldnt put draws on the fixed biners at the top of trix and madge to do thier 20000th lap, but then stamp your feet at the ethical shortcomings of beginners?