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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Grampians	Northern	Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre	Taipan Wall	[ Taipan Images ]

Topic Date User

Seventh Pillar ***18 M2 5-Jan-2006 At 1:00:57 AM JAVL

Message

We did this, probably on 19th Dec whilst on holiday from the UK

I have a bad feeling we threw the stick off. However it's easy to clip the bolt by levering up off a big nut or hex placed in the horizontal break below the bolt.

We may have cleaned your 4 RP plus another 3 or 4 pieces from the flake below - don't suppose you use blue tape?

We found the aid fine without specialist aid gear. We had 3 long slings and 4, maybe 5 short. We didn't have hangers and tied off all the bolts with slings or wires.

We found the free climbing very hard on the second pitch despite having double ropes and no drag (we've also got some DMM revolver clips with pulleys in them which are superb for bendy pitches) The free move to the belay slot on the second pitch is very tough - it can't be aided by pulling on the bolt as it implies in the guidebook description. I'd have thought that this could be a stopper move for some parties and the pitch as a whole is surely harder than 18 ? It might be worth carrying a big hook just in case for this move.

I'd also recommend against dropping the medium wire rack from the start of the last pitch as it has a lot of medium wire placements!