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Crag & Route Beta

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Topic Date User

First trad lead recommendations at Araps? 12-Apr-2011 At 5:41:35 PM Sarah Gara

Message

On 12/04/2011 simey wrote:
>On 10/04/2011 Wendy wrote:
>>I remember the last beginner with a feel for climbing you put on Camalot
>>as his first lead. A little birdy told me he said he was abjectly petrified
>>on it and enjoyed his 2nd and 3rd leads of the much better chosen Bullet
>>Buttress and Little Revolver crack a lot more.
>
>Well who was this little birdy? I don't recall anyone else at the crag
>and I don't recall an abjectly terrified leader either. It sounds like
>someones second-hand impression without any real understanding of the situation.
>
>My recollection is of a beginner leader who might have been a bit nervous,
>but who actually climbed confidently and placed gear pretty competently.
>Given his skill level at seconding me up climbs I made a decision to put
>him on Camalot due to the limited time I had available to introduce him
>to leading. I didn't want to give him some Mickey Mouse experience and
>I wanted him to have a respect for being on the sharp end. I had a strong
>feeling that he would enjoy the challenge and I was right - soon after
>he went out and bought a new rack!
>

I recall you saying ...em yeah huh maybe I was being a bit lazy. maybe that wasn't the best choice. I don't think he was abjectly petrified but certainly scared/nervous. He defo commented that he prefered little revolver crack. I think he was going to buy that rack regardless too - he'd been looking on gear express for ages. and wh you getting so defensive anyway?

And you didn't know he was going to climb confidently either he could have freaked out. but I agree he does and it was all fine - but you fully admitted to me afterwards that you could have picked a better route. .

He is good though and I'm lokking forward to him dragging me up some harder stuff fairly soon - He's good. x