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Crag & Route Beta

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Topic Date User

First trad lead recommendations at Araps? 12-Apr-2011 At 9:19:26 AM vonClimb

Message

On 11/04/2011 gfdonc wrote:
>On 11/04/2011 PDRM wrote:
>more background they seconded Tannin clean (and looking comfortable) the
>other weekend so climbs in the 10-12 grade should be ok.

I don't think it matters what grade he can second or top rope. As wendy says its about the process. I think it is important to get practice placing gear and coming to grips with important aspects of lead climbing (rope drag, placing gear in a good position etc) on a nice EASY climb. Putting them on a harder climb that has a couple tricky moves or difficult gear placements will only compound their difficulties.

Speaking of my own experience, I was also seconding 19 or 20's. My first lead was one of the 6's on the back of the bushrangers. Should of been a piece of cake, but I do remember a moment I was getting pumped placing gear because I was doing it in a very awkward stance. I also took an eternity to climb it. I was much happier this took place on a 6 rather than an 11 or 12. I might have completely freaked out.

As somebody else mentioned its the leaders call as to what their first lead is. Maybe they should be reading this forum to aid their decision.