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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Arapiles	The Watchtower Faces	(General)	The Watchtower	[ Arapiles Guide \| Arapiles Images ]

Topic Date User

watch tower crack? 28-Mar-2011 At 8:36:41 AM egosan

Message

On 27/03/2011 Rolsen1 wrote:

>I've seen someone who didn't have a big cam get to this point and back
>off before hitching a ride with the pair following them up - apparently
>they'd done brolga the day before but this pitch freaked them out more

Brolga is a funny one. I find the protection adequate. Sure it is no Tarantula where you can poke a piece in every 30 cm if you like; however even on the hardest move on the second pitch I wasn't more than 2m from my last decent piece. It is a slab, even if you do fall it will only be uncomfortable. I reckon it is the slabiness not the gear that freaks people out.

Regarding the Watchtower Crack. The run out between the three pin belay and the fixed hanger is a between 2 and 3 meters. You can fix that with a #5. The runout from there to the crux of that pitch where the crack constricts and you can put in a #2 or a hex is some where less than 5m. A #4 camalot allows you to cut a little more than a meter off that runout. A #5 would let you halve it. The climbing in those runout sections is not hard or insecure. It is just moves you will never learn in a gym.