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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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VIC Buffalo Gorge North Side North Wall [ Gorge Guide ] 

Topic Date User
Ozymandias 15-Mar-2011 At 7:23:07 PM dave h.
On 15/03/2011 Fish Boy wrote:
>On 14/03/2011 dave h. wrote:
>>if you do decide to do the original, it's much easier to tension traverse
>>left at the bolt on the 2nd pitch above Big Grassy (rather than aiding
>>the thin corner to the roof and then following the thin crack between
>>roof and the wall left).
>You what?!?!? I can't believe you climbed that thing! Nice! I thought
>it was pretty obvious just to swing over, mostly free with a wee bit of
>tension. Your way looked balls...
>The hauling is fine on original, like Brendan said the 2nd can sort the
>fuss, which is minimal. Off the 7th we just let the bags rrriiiiiiipppppppp
>over to She wall, good times...the pitch after is a bitch though, solo
>more so...

Well I should explain. The first time I lead that pitch was Nov last year. I did the tension off to the left, and then went up the easier ground to the pedestal thing on the arete.

When my second came up we decided that discretion was the better part of valour, because it was Tuesday arvo and we had to be back in Sydney for work on Thursday morning, and were unsure what lay ahead. (We also thought we were off-route).

When I went back in Feb this year I still hadn't worked out that the pedestal was on route for the Original. So I thought I'd go up the crack under the roof just to check that it did lead to the pedestal - which, of course, it does.

Frightening? Yeah I was crapping myself for a while. But the gear is pretty good - you can get lots of #1-#2 RPs and other small wires in.

I'm glad you think the fear was justified :)

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