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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Arapiles	The Pharos	(General)	Back Wall	[ Arapiles Guide \| Arapiles Images ]

Topic Date User

Bolt on last pitch of Judgement Day?? 9-Mar-2011 At 6:36:08 PM jezza

Message

On 9/03/2011 Wendy wrote:
>Why? Does the route description say "traverse R until you see a bolt
>nearly 2m above you, climb up to clip that, climb down to traverse line
>again then resume traverse and up strenuous crack"? It says "traverse
>r and up strenuous crack". Anyone capable of following the route description
>would be aware that climbing up before the crack to clip a bolt is not
>on the route. Whether they choose to do that or not is entirely up to them.

Look at the photo on page 1. See the crack at the climber's right feet? It's diagonal!! I thought that was what the guide was talking about. So did my leader the other time. And, you don't climb back down after clipping the bolt. Neither of us went out of our way, we just followed a line and the chalk.

I'm thrilled to have been part of creating a new variant of a *** classic. I'm going to call it 'Judgement Day (Get a Life Variant) 18'.