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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Buffalo	(General)	(General)	(General)	[ Mt Buffalo Guide \| Images ]

Topic Date User

Carrots At Buffalo 18-Jan-2011 At 7:43:47 PM Paulie

Message

My 2cents...

I was personally disappointed to hear that PB had extra bolts added as it would substantially detract from the nature of the climbing (slightly runout, exposed arete), it doesn't matter if you can skip clips to make it more bold, if that was the case why not grid bolt all routes and then if you want, solo them - with all due respect, that arguement makes no sense.

The character of Buffalo is, and always has been, bold routes, spiced with carrot bolts on which you must cautiously balance on a smear while reaching slowly into your chalk bag to take out a bolt plate, fiddle with said bolt plate (sometimes dropping it), wriggle it on and pray your smear holds while you fiddle a draw on and clip...you simply don't get that sensation from hangers or rings.

To place rings or hangers on classy slab routes at Buffalo (some routes do require them e.g., Dead Ringers) is a big step backwards and again will seriously detract from the alpine feel of the place (yes, even the Castle area) and the character of the routes.

And yes, I have personally placed hangers up there and will one day replace them with glue in s/s machine bolts :-P