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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Buffalo	(General)	(General)	(General)	[ Mt Buffalo Guide \| Images ]

Topic Date User

Carrots At Buffalo 12-Jan-2011 At 11:25:28 AM gordoste

Message

On 11/01/2011 kieranl wrote:
>The one tick that carrots get from me is their low visibility in public
>areas such as the summit blocks on The Horn.
>"Sometimes you can't see them from the ground even if you know where to
>look. There can definitely be a sense of setting off into the great grey
>yonder".
>The first ascent party didn't have this problem. They knew exactly where
>the bolts were. Why should repeat parties have to experience the horror
>of missing a crucial bolt?

It's not a problem. Everybody has an idea of where the bolts are due to the topo. If I miss a bolt it's because I'm an idiot and not concentrating enough.

I am talking about SS carrots, glue-in or bash-in. Would be interested on whether people think glue-ins or bash-ins are better and why.

Fixed hangers are acceptable also as they are invisible from a distance (except when the sun catches them) but shouldn't be used in highly visible areas (e.g. right next to walking tracks).

U's and rings are visible from a long way off and IMO have no place at Buffalo.

BTW Joe Goding did also put up a few slab routes at the Hump, I believe they have FHs or carrots (I haven't looked at them myself) but I guess he learnt from the mistake.