Ive enjoyed both routes I have done there, and would recommend them both. One was the rightmost route (looking at the cliff) which from memory was called Barnacle Bill. It was 17 or 18, and had a cruisy & juggy start with a bit more difficully towards the top. I didnt lead it, but recall that it might have been a little run out in places???
The second route ive done there was called 'The Plunge'. It was 16 or 17, and a good testing route at that grade. An easy start up the face to join a big chossy corner, where you get to marvel at the old original bolt which is a massivly corroded carrot. You can arrange natural pro, but none of it is super inspiring (due to the rock at that point in the corner being shockingly sandy). You then bravely leave the corner and swing up left around a bulge, before face climbing up rightwards to a very welcome bomber cam. The last 10 or 20 metres of the route (as with all routes) is a sandy hillside.
I really liked The Plunge, but im a fan of atmospheric & chossy routes! If you dont like atmospheric, chossy routes, then the Big Cliff isnt the place to go. |