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Crag & Route Beta

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Topic Date User

Living With A Hernia 16-Sep-2005 At 6:46:46 PM duglash

Message

Reticent as I am to talk about my own routes... yep it's a good 'un. It's in Pan Grove, at the top of the
cliff, roughly above Toad in the Hole. You can get there in 5 min from the disabled lookout, once you
know the way - it's pretty much directly below the bouldering area Islamabad.

Nath said 'best power route in Australia' after he did it. If you know Nath you'll know he'll say anything
once and so this is next to worthless but I ignored that and quickly harnessed it for the publicity
campaign. It is pretty cool in having only about 3 flat holds, everything else is a layaway or undercling. I
did it with two kneebars and two heel-toes, i can guarantee Nath didn't. One of the heel-toes I used to
clip the second bolt, which is a hard clip from which you'd hit the ground if you blew it. Or you could use
double ropes, which I did. Malcolm and Wally are currently trying it using a single rope and a long sling
on the second bolt. Pre clip the first bolt.

It's steepest at the start (maybe 45? dunno really), which is the crux, about 28 to the second bolt, then
easier, maybe 24 to the third and a few hard moves to finish. I linked to the third bolt on the third day but
it took me another seven to actually do the last moves. The last moves are a dyno from an undercling to
a slope and then a few different options. I went left to a pocket cos I'm crap on slopes but everyone who
is actually strong has gone straight up. The last moves aren't super hard but it's so continuous they're
the redpoint crux. I found I wasn't chalking for the whole route, and had to incorporate a chalk at the last
bolt to depump my right arm a bit.

Gear is just 3 bolts in 30 I mean 10 m, and it's happy to have a long (10m) bit of static to sling a big
bollard at the top for toproping/lowering off. It stays dry in all but heavy rain, and is always in the shade,
though not too bad in winter as it seems to keep out of the wind. The moves are great, it's a bit slippery
at the start and gritty at the end, I think it's probably worth 2 stars.

Give us a yell if you're up and I'll show you the way (the truth and the light)